Celebrating Black Dandyism: Exploring Cultural Representation at the 2025 Met Gala

Before we dive in, I want to acknowledge that this post is longer than usual. However, this topic has been weighing heavily on my heart. As someone who has spent her career in the fashion world, I admire the art, creativity, and innovation fashion represents. Yet, I have also witnessed how style can exploit, appropriate, and erase when divorced from context.

“When does admiration become appropriation?” I posed this question during a recent episode of *White Women Wake Up with my mom. The room was charged with tension

Spoiler alert: we didn’t reach a neat answer—because there isn’t one. The messiness of this issue is the point. Embracing discomfort is where learning happens.

Today, I want to linger in that messy space. The theme for the 2025 Met Gala - “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” - has been called a tribute to Black dandyism. Curated by scholar Dr. Monica Miller and co-chaired by a remarkable slate of Black creatives, the gala also faces criticism. Some worry that this red-carpet spectacle might reduce centuries of resistance to a brief TikTok trend.

As a lifelong fashion enthusiast and a white woman learning to recognize my privilege, I feel this tension intensely. So let’s take a step back:

• How did Black dandyism originate, and why is it significant?

• When does cultural exchange shift into exploitation—on the Met steps or in our own closets?

• What practical habits can white women adopt to ensure admiration doesn’t slip into appropriation?

  
  

Grab your coffee; this is a journey through satin lapels and the quiet work of de-centering ourselves.

Understanding Black Dandyism: More Than Just Fancy Suits

Most mainstream discussions of Black dandyism start with the “Harlem Renaissance swagger.” This visually captivating era is often romanticized without a full understanding of its profound historical roots. The story of Black dandyism is complex—emerging from oppression and evolving into a powerful form of self-expression and resistance.

Fashion as Forced Display: The Colonial Roots

In the 18th century, British aristocrats used enslaved Black attendants as literal fashion accessories. These individuals were adorned in elaborate garments to signify their owners' wealth and status. Historian Monica Miller describes this practice as the “forcible fashioning” of Black bodies. These garments represented more than luxury; they symbolized the grotesque commodification and objectification of human beings—showcasing ownership and dominance.

However, from this dark history, a significant transformation occurred. After emancipation, Black men reclaimed the tools of oppression. Instead of signifying subjugation, tailored fashion became a declaration of dignity, self-worth, and defiance. Figures like Frederick Douglass donned impressive suits, contrasting sharply with their enslaved past. They publicly asserted their humanity and rightful place in society. Similarly, the famous Sapeurs of Congo used bright, immaculate tailoring to counteract colonial stereotypes, challenging societal contradictions and injustices. Their attire wasn’t merely about fashion; it was an embodied protest—a visible claim to respect, autonomy, and power.

Modern Expressions of Resistance

Today, this legacy of stylish resistance evolves through artists and designers who embrace dandyism as an aesthetic of refusal—refusing assimilation, being overlooked, or diminishing their identities for societal acceptance. Artists like Jidenna and designers such as Ozwald Boateng celebrate Black dandyism as a sophisticated acknowledgment of Black identity. This identity is rooted in resilience and creativity, emerging from generations that turned oppression into powerful expressions of liberation.

The Costume Institute's exhibition diligently explores this intricate lineage. It highlights both celebratory and sobering dimensions of Black dandyism. As we engage with such exhibits, it’s crucial to consider who benefits from their popularity and whose stories risk being simplified or lost in mainstream trends. Understanding and respecting this rich history is vital for meaningful engagement and authentic appreciation.

Analyzing the Met Gala: Cultural Celebration or Cultural Exploitation?

The Purpose Behind the Glamour: What the Gala Funds

At its core, the Met Gala transcends a mere red carpet. Yes, it’s an exclusive affair with a guest list and price tag to match, but it also serves a significant cultural function. The event raises funds for the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. These funds support a collection the public can access with minimal costs. Many visitors—from artists to students—find deep inspiration within the Met. The revenue generated from one extravagant night supports a year-round educational mission. Notably, most of the Met’s galleries are free for New York residents and offer “pay-what-you-wish” admissions for others.

A Theme Rooted in Resistance and Celebration

The 2025 theme, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," presents a meaningful offering. It celebrates a rich lineage of Black expression and craftsmanship in fashion. Curators like Dr. Monica Miller, visual artists such as Torkwase Dyson, and photographers like Tyler Mitchell bring this theme to life. Additionally, Black designers like LaQuan Smith and the legacy of André Leon Talley have shaped this aesthetic in bold and nuanced ways.

These selections reflect genuine progress in centering Black voices and honoring their cultural contributions. Recently, a Refinery29 piece noted that this year’s gala theme did something rare: it handed over the mic, saying, "Here, tell your story in your own voice." Black creators embraced the opportunity to share their narratives—with elegance, scholarship, and style. They weren’t just accessories to the event; they were the event.

The Risks of Misinterpretation and Missed Opportunities

Despite these strides, critique remains valid and necessary. When an elite institution highlights marginalized stories, the risk of commodification is significant. What occurs when a form of resistance like Black dandyism becomes a passing fashion trend? What responsibility do consumers—particularly white ones—carry when they admire without acknowledging, wear without understanding, or profit without giving back?

These questions lack straightforward answers, but they are essential to keep asking. The Met Gala has achieved significant visibility this year by showcasing brilliance. Now, it's our responsibility to ensure that brilliance isn't distilled into a mere lookbook or hashtag.

Who Gets to Benefit?

In moments when Black culture takes center stage in mainstream institutions, responses can be complicated. The 2025 Met Gala—featuring the theme "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style"—serves as a rich example. While some applaud the event’s effort to showcase Black designers and aesthetics, others raise valid concerns about tokenism, trendiness, and systemic inequities that persist.

From an educational perspective, the gala’s contents—including mini-documentaries, panel discussions, and museum exhibits—have sparked deeper conversations about Black dandyism and its legacy. Vogue has featured interviews with curator Dr. Monica Miller, offering context that extends beyond the red carpet. However, questions linger about the long-term educational impact. A 2024 study by Florida International University revealed that only 29% of Gen Z viewers engage with fashion history content for more than 30 seconds. In a media-driven culture focused on virality, how much of the nuanced narrative will actually be absorbed?

Regarding representation, the Met Gala took visible strides by promoting Black creatives as co-chairs and spotlighting Black-owned brands. Celebrities like Pharrell Williams, Coleman Domingo, and A$AP Rocky were central figures, embodying Black presence and leadership. Yet, the exclusivity of the event cannot be overlooked. With tickets priced at $75,000, the gala remains inaccessible to many—including numerous Black designers, tailors, and stylists whose work influences the theme. The paradox lies in celebrating Black cultural genius within an elite, gated event.

A Fast Fashion Fallout

The trend-cycle dilemma adds another layer of complexity. The visibility generated by the Met Gala can provide a short-term sales spike for featured Black-owned brands. However, fast-fashion companies quickly replicate high-concept designs without compensating or crediting the original creators. A 2023 report by the Fashion Law Institute found that over 40% of cultural motifs showcased at major fashion events are copied within three weeks by fast fashion retailers, often stripping designs of their historical and cultural specificity.

For white women navigating the line between admiration and appropriation, these tensions must be confronted. Supporting Black designers should extend beyond a double-tap on Instagram; it requires ongoing education, financial investment in the right spaces, and a commitment to amplifying—not consuming—marginalized voices.

Identifying When Admiration Becomes Appropriation

Admiration shifts into appropriation when power dynamics and historical context are disregarded. Here are a few common warning signs white women can use to assess their cultural engagement:

What Erasure Looks Like—And Feels Like

Lack of credit is a major red flag. Sharing images, styles, or phrases without referencing their original source erases the contributions of the very individuals you aim to uplift. Visibility matters, especially for marginalized creators whose work often goes underrecognized. Consider festival-goers wearing cornrows or box braids without recognizing their African roots or celebrities, like Kim Kardashian, who labeled Fulani braids as “Bo Derek braids” without crediting the true origin. Ignoring the originators leads to appropriation.

Next, consider how commodified the cultural item has become. Purchasing mass-produced versions of sacred or culturally meaningful garments from fast-fashion brands supports an exploitative system. Indigenous-inspired prints and feathered accessories often appear in stores like Urban Outfitters or Zara, stripped of their spiritual meaning and sold for profit without consultation or benefit to the communities they come from.

Pay attention to the context as well. Quoting slang like “on fleek” or “periodt” without knowledge of their origins in Black LGBTQ+ communities reduces cultural richness to mere aesthetic. Similarly, the "ghetto fabulous" aesthetic was rebranded by major brands without honoring the working-class Black women who pioneered it in the ’90s.

Defensiveness is another key indicator. If your immediate response to being called out is to defend your good intentions, it’s time for reflection. Katy Perry’s geisha-inspired AMA performance sparked backlash—many initially found it beautiful until Japanese and Asian American communities highlighted the harmful stereotyping. Instead of engaging with those critiques thoughtfully, public response often focused on defending her "appreciation."

These red flags are not meant to induce guilt; rather, they prompt us to pause and reconsider our behaviors, moving toward more authentic appreciation.

Erasure by Rebranding

To grasp the harm of erasure, consider how frequently women’s contributions to art and science have been overlooked or outright stolen. Throughout history, male artists often claimed ownership of the work, ideas, or talents of their female peers. Lee Krasner’s paintings were overshadowed by her husband Jackson Pollock, despite her being a formidable abstract expressionist. Camille Claudel, a brilliant sculptor, was often dismissed as merely a muse or student of Rodin, though much of her influence can be seen in his works. Even in modern media, figures like photographer Vivian Maier only gained acknowledgment posthumously, after men appropriated and profited from their archives.

These examples resonate with many women because we understand the feeling of being dismissed, rewritten, or forgotten. A similar pain of erasure is felt by marginalized communities when white consumers adopt their culture without context, without credit, and without care. It’s not just about wearing a style—it’s about appropriating a story, a legacy, and a lifeline, rebranding it without acknowledging its roots. When we overlook or minimize origin stories, we perpetuate cycles of erasure, taking more than we give.

Practicing Cultural Appreciation Responsibly

Cultivating appreciation is vital. In fact, it’s essential for building solidarity and cultural awareness—but it takes effort, humility, and consistency.

White Women at the Met: When It’s Done Well

At this year’s Met Gala, the balance between appreciation and appropriation was particularly evident. While some white attendees refrained from theme-adjacent looks—perhaps out of fear—others demonstrated what thoughtful appreciation could look like. A few notable white celebrities collaborated with Black designers and stylists, crafting ensembles that honored the theme with respect and style. These moments illustrate that when effort, research, and collaboration lead the way, participation in cultural celebration can be done without crossing into appropriation. The aim isn’t to avoid engagement out of fear but to engage thoughtfully, with care, humility, and a willingness to listen first.

Appreciation Takes Effort

To practice true cultural appreciation, consider these actionable steps:

• Thoroughly research. Before adopting a style, phrase, or tradition, understand its origins and significance. Engage with articles, listen to cultural voices, and explore primary sources when possible.

  
  

• Give credit. Whether in conversation, social media, or purchasing decisions, acknowledge the people and cultures that inspire you. Attribution is a small but powerful step toward redistributing visibility.

  
  

• Support creators financially. Opt to buy from creators within the culture rather than from mass-market alternatives. If you repurpose or DIY a look, consider donating to organizations serving that community.

  
  

• Let context outrank aesthetics. Ask yourself: would I still find this meaningful if it didn’t look good on me or perform well online? If not, your interest might be surface-level.

  
  

• Amplify authentic voices. Share interviews, podcasts, or books from cultural insiders. Invite them into your spaces—do so respectfully, without expecting emotional labor.

  
  

• Stay open to feedback. If someone from the community discusses your engagement, approach it with gratitude. Adjust behavior without seeking praise or validation in return.

  
  

The Role of White Women in Addressing Cultural Appropriation

White women occupy a complex space in conversations about cultural appropriation. This complexity often stems from our deep-rooted perfectionism and desire to “get it right,” leading to performative allyship instead of deep self-examination and community support.

Being anti-racist means stepping back and elevating other voices, prioritizing listening, learning, and supporting. It necessitates departing from defensiveness and shifting toward accountability. We won’t always succeed—and that’s okay. What’s essential is how we respond when we fall short.

Moreover, we need to recognize our platforms—be it a classroom, a social feed, or a dinner table—and use them to amplify others. As our visibility increases, so does our responsibility to center marginalized voices, challenge inequities, and foster meaningful dialogue.

Practical Actions to Encourage Thoughtful Cultural Engagement

There are tangible steps white women can take to shift from appropriation to appreciation in our daily habits and through year-round engagement with fashion and design:

• Commit to educational viewing. Watch red carpet recaps or fashion documentaries alongside books like Dr. Monica Miller’s Slaves to Fashion or Michaela Angela Davis’s works on Black cultural aesthetics. Make it a habit to research cultural references you don’t recognize.

  
  

• Maintain a reflective journal. When discomfort arises—especially regarding being called out or critiqued—jot it down. Explore what triggered the feeling, what you learned, and how you plan to respond the next time. Over time, you’ll notice patterns and development.

  
  

These practices aren’t about achieving perfection as allies. They’re about being persistent learners acting in alignment with our values.

Thanks for taking this journey with me!

Stay curious, be open, and keep waking up.

-Jonelle